Schnittchen Coco and Butterick 5748

This jacket is one of those makes that gets quickly labeled as “my favorite ever.” That description gets thrown around a lot after I finish something. The dress, on the other hand, was never a favorite. I made it in January for an event, but didn’t see myself in photos of it until now. It isn’t a fail by any means, but the fit is lacking. It kind of makes me happy in a way because I know that today, 7 months later, I could make the same thing with a much better fit.


The jacket is made from a Jacquard I found at Joann Fabrics for 60% off. I went in for a couple of notions, then of course, left the store with 4 lengths of fabric. So it goes. This fabric never even made it into the stash. I immediately knew it was time to make the much dreamed about Schnittchen Coco Jacket.


I consulted Instagram about using a lining since the flip side of the fabric is so pretty. The verdict came down- it is ok to skip the lining and use a fancy seam treatment. Exciting, right? I hadn’t tried a Hong Kong finish yet.


Like so many good intentions on my path, that plan was doomed to failure. I ended up gobbling up most of the seam allowance for a good fit. Even so, I tried to do a Hong Kong finish by hand. Several hours later, I called it quits. The fabric was fraying and it was just a mess. I ended up serging the seams, which still makes me sad, but it is all in the name of lessons learned.


I finished the facing with pink bias tape and called the inside good enough. The outside, if I do say so myself, is glorious.


Construction was a breeze besides the seam finishes. This is a pattern I would call straight up easy! Not Vogue Patterns “Easy” but actually easy. I sewed the hem by hand using a ladder stitch. Not because it’s necessarily the best stitch- I just don’t know many hand stitches.

For reference, my measurements:

Bust 39.5”
Waist 33”
Hip 44”
Height 5 ft, 8.5 inches (that half inch matters to me!)

I made a size 44 and added 1.5” in length to each the body and sleeves.


The dress is ­­­­­B5748. I was attracted to this style because I thought it a snug bodice and a circle skirt would be flattering. Some amazing makes come up in a Google search for this pattern. Looking back, I’m not sure that silhouette is for me, but I felt great in it- so no regrets on that front.

PicMonkey Collage

I made it using a poly stretch satin I got from Fabric Mart for $1/yd. I lined the bodice with cotton lawn and the skirt with polyester lining fabric. The invisible zipper was a first for me. It was a little difficult with the lining, but in the end, it was adequate.


Putting this dress together was fairly simple. Making a faux rolled hem on a circle skirt took quite a bit of time, but the result was great. I used my serger to finish the lining with a handkerchief hem. I used pinking shears to finish the dresses seams


The fit. I needed to go significantly tighter on the bodice and adjust the darts. I’ve never adjusted a dart, but this was the place to do it. The bust was big and the dart apex was off (too high, right?). I have some slope to my shoulders and I’m often grabbing for my bra straps to put them back in place so I added a bra strap holder thingy to the shoulder seems. I have had a few ready to wear garments with this feature- I love it!


In this picture I am wearing tall shoes. Those are a joke, a fantasy, a remnant of an old life. I never wear heals anymore. They kill my feet, instantly. I used to put up with it, but I am over it. I wore this dress to a semi-formal event with shiny black flats.

Obligatory circle skirt twirl.




  1. Wow- that Coco is AWESOME! I love it! The pink binding on the inside is the perfect pop of color… I’m glad to see this jacket works unlined. I have the pattern and was wondering if I could make it without a lining since it’s too hot for lined jackets here.


    1. Meg! I’m so excited that you commented. I have followed your blog for a long time. Yes, the jacket is fine unlined and it makes for a good opportunity to make pretty insides. I hope you are well in Bangkok.


  2. You look amazing in these pics! Love the jacket fabric and pink binding and it looks super together with the dress. Sewing is such a journey huh, its really nice to learn new things – i’d love to learn how to move a dart too. Ive done it a few times but with limited success. LOVE your twirl pic.


  3. This outfit is so stunning! And I love the pop of color the bias tape offers inside the jacket. I hope you get a lot of wear from both garments, especially the jacket. It looks so comfy and chic.


  4. The jacket is so cute – I bet it looks adorable with jeans. I’m not generally drawn to collarless jackets (they always feel mother-of-the-bride to me for some reason) but made up in this fabric it feels young and chic. The pink seam finish helps, too 🙂 I can relate about the dress – I have only made two dresses for myself but they were very quickly retired because I hated how I looked in them.


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